Router Table Adapter Plate Modification

I had a little free time this weekend and used it to address a couple of things in the garage.

1. I got my motorcycle running again

  • I’m actually very proud of this. After watching a friend do it once, I took out the carburetor, took it apart, cleaned it, reassembled it,  and re-installed it in 2.5 hours.
  • When the bike STILL wouldn’t start, I hooked it up to my truck battery and jump-started it, now it runs like a scared bunny.

2. I modified my router table adapter plate

I make the adapter plate a while back out of 1/4″ thick aluminum sheet. The center hole I cut was 2 1/4″ in diameter, which was sufficient for any router bit I owned.

But then I came across a large raised-panel bit on clearance at Rockler and bought it, only to find that it was too big to recess into the hole in the adapter plate.

I bought a set of large diameter hole saws from Harbor Freight to address the issue.

The drill press powered through the cut without any significant problems (just a lot of screeching and vibration), but the result was problematic.
Router Plate - Cutting
Router Plate - Cut
My thought had been to keep the inner portion of the cut with the original smaller hole to use as a bushing to support work pieces when using a standard sized bit; but with a large gap between the inside of the new hole and the outside of the old one, I needed a way to fill this gap and keep the inner bushing secure.

So I traced the new hole onto a piece of plywood and cut it out on my scroll saw.
Router Plate - Outer Diameter
After confirming a snug fit on the large hole, I placed the bushing on top of the plywood circle to trace it and removed the inside of the circle with the scroll saw.
Router Plate - Inner Diameter
Router Plate - bushing

After a bit of quick sanding I had a completed solution: The wooden ring fills the gap between the large hole and the inner bushing, allowing the bushing to fit securely inside the larger hole.
Router Plate - Small
Router Plate - Large

All in all, I was happy with this fix, but I may still thread a screw through the inner portion and into the router base, just to make certain the new bushing doesn’t turn into a hypersonic projectile the next time I use the router table. Although I do like hypersonic projectiles

Advertisements

Hide-Away Router Table

One of the first projects I took on after buying a welder was making a router table.

I made it 36″ tall, 18″ deep, and 32″ wide with a 10-gauge steel top and an aluminum insert/adapter plate. Shortly after completing it, I realized that it was too big for my garage.

Even though it is a lot smaller than my table saw, I will not be using it nearly as much as the saw, so I am not willing to dedicate as much floor space to it.

I considered making the table short enough to slide under the workbench, but this would have made it too short to work on comfortably.

Another idea I had was to use drawer slides mounted on the bottom of the workbench, but again, this made the table surface too low once it was set at a height that would accommodate the workbench frame and the router table fence.

And so I came up with a solution: Hang the table from the bottom of my workbench and swing it out when I want to use it. This would allow me to store it away when not in use, and bring it up to a usable height for use.

Here’s the concept in sketchup:

To accomplish this in reality, I basically cut up the legs on the router table, and bolted them back on upside down, and then hung the whole thing from the bottom of the bench.

Since the table is made of metal, it’s heavy, so I added two 30lb gas springs to the back to help lift the table into position.

Once the table is raised, I have two pivoting legs that I drop into position to hold the table up at a comfortable working height.

Here is the finished product: