About GarageSandals

I am a Husband to a wonderful wife, the proud Dad of the two cutest kids in the world, a marketing professional at Qualcomm, a homeowner in San Diego, and a somewhat compulsive and ADHD tinkerer.

I have a lot of tools in my garage. Woodworking tools, Welding equipment, Machining…uh..machines, and a few other things.

Post mostly about the projects I’m doing around my house and in the garage, sharing tips, tricks, and screwups… lots of screwups.

Overall, I should be able to manage to keep myself busy…

8 thoughts on “About GarageSandals

    • Sorry, I’ve fresh out. I do have the two aluminum extensions, which, if I’m honest, are just as good, if not better than the stamped steel.
      The aluminum extensions have the same contact surface area as the stamped steel, but are more rigid (don’t need to be bolted to the fence rails) and are easier to keep parallel to the rest of the table top.
      I didn’t know this before I bought the extra steel extensions, but now that I’ve got them in place and aligned, I just like how they look.

  1. I just picked up a Inca “310” bandsaw…a little different than yours…has a motor under the stand which drive the lower wheel via pulley….and no dust collection port. I just replaced the tires and am trying to track the 1/2″ blade that came with the saw…no joy. My wheels are not coplanar like yours seem to be. Not sure how to make them coplanar. The bottom wheel is out further by about 1/4″…and the upper wheel seems “loose”…maybe a bearing is bad? Ugh….what did I get myself into!

    • Don’t despair just yet.

      The upper wheel of the bandsaw is loose by design, this allows it to pivot when you adjust the tracking using the knobs on the upper back of the saw. If the wheel spins smoothly without a grating sound or feel, your bearings are probably still good.

      As far as alignment is concerned, I’m not sure if I explained how I approached it, but this adjustment is done on the bottom wheel.

      Removed the bottom tire

      The wheel is press fit onto the shaft (assuming the direct drive and belt drive uses the same design, which they appear to), so you adjust the wheel “in” by tightening the bolt in the center. You adjust the wheel “out” by removing the bolt and using gear pullers to pull the wheel out along the shaft. I found easiest to start too far out, and bring the wheel into alignment by tightening the bolt.

      If this is not an option, or the wheel is already all the way “in” on the shaft, you may be able to “tilt” the lower shaft with shims to point slightly inwards at the top. This would not work if the top wheel were fixed in place, but since it pivots, it will automatically be parallel to the bottom wheel when under tension.

      One thing to note, it’s hard to check the alignment without installing the blade any applying some tension to keep the top wheel from wiggling.

      Give it a shot and feel free to ask for any additional tips. Pictures will help me help you; or at least help me avoid telling you to do something stupid.

  2. I really like your modified, trigger operated, pole spear design. I’d like to construct something similar. Where did you find or how did you make your stainless steel latch/trigger?

  3. Hi there, great blog. I was wondering, can you give me advice? I’ve just bought an Inca 342.186. I’m planning to give it an overhaul and clean up. Do you know:
    How to get the fan cover off the motor?
    How to get the bottom wheel off the motor shaft?
    What might cause an intermittent startup issue where the motor just hums?
    Does the Leyroy Somer motor have a centrifuge switch?

    Any help would be much appreciated. I don’t want to force anything with this machine it’s just too lovely.

    Cheers,
    Rhys

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